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Method
Mix the chicken with yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, masala, chilli, turmeric and salt. Marinate for at least 30 minutes (overnight in the fridge is even better).
Heat the ghee in a heavy pot and fry the onions until deep golden and crisp, about 12 minutes. Lift out half and set aside for the top.
Meanwhile, boil the rice in plenty of salted water with the whole spices for 5–6 minutes until about 70% cooked. Drain.
Add the chicken to the pot with the remaining onions. Cook on medium for 15 minutes, stirring now and then, until the chicken is nearly cooked.
Spread the rice over the chicken. Top with the crispy onions, herbs, saffron milk and a spoon of ghee.
Cover tightly (seal with foil under the lid) and cook on the lowest heat for 20–25 minutes. Rest 5 minutes, then fluff gently from the sides.
Shabul's tip: Bone-in thighs stay juicy during the long, slow 'dum' cook. Don't stir once the rice is layered.